Arissy
I won’t lie, seeing the Brighton weather forecast as my outdoor reservation grew ever closer filled me with a sense of dread. But hours before, despite rain being forecast, the clouds parted and the sun shone and I started to feel real excitement at finally getting to sample one of my latest Instagram food crushes, Arissy.
Arissy is run by couple Ari and Isy, hence the very elegant word smashed name. They are Brighton based but have worked in restaurants in London and Barcelona. Currently in residence at Cafe Rust in Hove on Thursday to Saturday evenings, they will be able to offer more seating inside when the time comes very soon (hopefully mid May). The couple have over 20 years of combined experience in the hospitality industry. Isy is the very talented chef and Ari is the maître d' and good vibes bringer on the terrace, but also maker of the top notch desserts.
As we turned on to George Street in Hove, outside another restaurant, a table of women banging out disco classics on a bluetooth speaker and drinking mojitos was the good omen I had been waiting for. I soon realised I need not have worried about the weather as we took our seats on the partially covered terrace, though a few patio heaters did not go amiss when the evening got a little bit brisker.
The menu is full of the kind of summery food that makes you feel like you're on holiday, which is ideal when it is currently illegal to do so. Arissy describes themselves as ‘taking influence from Spain, Italy, Greece and Cyprus...sunshine-inspired dishes using British, seasonal produce to transport you straight to the Mediterranean’. A selection of mostly small plates, I wanted to order one of everything.
We started with the evening special of British asparagus, ajo blanco & grape, which arrived beautifully but not fussily plated with a generous smear of the ajo blanco sauce and the grilled asparagus and grapes atop. The dish was perfectly seasoned and refreshing. It went down especially well with a glass of Catarratto in hand! The ajo blanco (sometimes known as ‘white gazpacho’) was not soupy, as is traditional, but thickened up to resemble something more akin to hummus.
Next came the Greek Salad with charred lemons, sweet peppers, and what I would describe as the ideal amount of feta - a generous slab. Everyone, please take note! Soon followed by roast aubergine with feta yoghurt, pistachio & mint. This dish was served cold which was a welcome surprise. The aubergine was cooked to perfection and the deep fried mint leaves were a nice touch.
The sobrasada and potato croquettes with aioli were out of this world! As a big croquette fan I can safely say these fall into a joint top two with my favourite tapas restaurant in Valencia. I assure you this is HIGH praise. The filling was soft and rich, the exterior deep fried to perfection, and the drizzle of honey a stroke of genius! A deeply satisfying small plate. The only thing I’d change would be ordering a whole portion just for me.
The chicken wings, date molasses and dukkah was another standout dish. Chunky coriander seeds and sticky molasses balanced with the crispy, tender chicken wings. I could not fault this plate. The slow cooked lamb shoulder flatbread with tzatziki and pomegranate was beautiful and tasty, with plenty of lamb warranting the price point of £12.
After seeing the mouth watering dessert menu, we somehow managed to find room for two more plates. I went for the peanut butter, chocolate delice with cream, which had a rich chocolate exterior making way for the peanut butter oozy centre. For me, this was the ideal dessert. My compandre snaffled the entire bowl of Arroz con leche, pineapple and coconut and thoroughly enjoyed it, noting the summer vibes on this plate were in full flow. While we rose valiantly to the challenge, I might suggest you keep the dessert menu in mind when ordering, or like me be prepared to be rolled home.
For plates with this standard of ingredients and cooking I felt the pricing was on point. Snacks start at £4 and small plates range between £6-8, with larger plates at £10-£12. The wine list had lots to offer for under £20 a bottle, which again is a big thumbs up from me.
The terrace was a real haven without any traffic, and a sun trap to catch the last of a spring evening’s rays. Ideal if, like me, you’re tired of being sat on a polluted A road whilst eating al fresco dinners. On a warm night I reckon you could have a good go at pretending you're visiting the local taverna in Corfu. The service was flawless and the plates came at a pleasant pace. The tables themselves had plenty of room between guests, which is great for those anxious about venturing out in these times.
If you live in Brighton and Hove - you lucky things - I implore you to make a reservation and thank me later. If you live in London or anywhere else with a train link to Brighton or Hove, grab your cossie and make a reservation quick.
Find Arissy at Cafe Rust 81 George Street, Hove, BN3 3YE open Thursday- Saturday 6-10pm. To reserve a table email bookings@arrisykitchen.com, or consider booking Arissy for event catering. See @arissykitchen on instagram or arissykitchen.com.
